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Visionaries of vogue

Meet five local designers whose spectacular spring collections are redefining Chicago style

By Korey Karnes and Annie Tomlin Photography by Treavor Doherty

Lara Miller

Age: 25
Signature style: Super-soft garments that can be "flipped" and worn in different ways
Inspiration: The body, especially brain function and skin regeneration. She's fascinated by the way geometric shapes are altered by the body's form and swears by the book Animate Form by Greg Lynn. All her collections are inspired by historic pieces from past fashion eras—for spring, it was the bed jackets of the 1930s.
Back story: In 2002, while still a fashion student at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Miller wore one of her own creations when she applied for a sales position at p.45. She didn't get the job, but her shirt won their attention. Soon her sweaters and cotton jersey pieces were flying off p.45's racks. Now her designs are sold in 20 stores nationwide.
View points: Miller has integrated her love of the body's animation by costuming for local dance companies, including Lucky Plush and the Seldoms. Her costume work is being highlighted on WTTW's The Chicago Dance Project on Sundays at 9:30pm.
Sold at: p.45, E Street Denim, Ananas, Ami Ami She says: "I always think to myself, 'What can I do with this piece? How can I change it around?' The whole point is for people to open up their minds."We say: Don't let her confusing creations scare you away. Once you try on the colorful, comfortable and one-of-a-kind pieces in her collection, you'll be hooked.
Spring highlights: Glossy 100 percent bamboo pulp Jessica sweater ($134), Mary Mini wrap/capelet ($97) and the Rebecca tank/sweater ($165)Fall forecast: A Victorian-inspired line with lots of bustles, cap sleeves and deep colors. Luxe iridescent chiffons show up in flouncy tunics and wrap skirts.

Age: 38
Signature style: Sophisticated, flowy dresses and separates with feminine ruching, pintucks and paneling
Inspiration: Modern, urban women who exude confidence and understated allure
Back story: After graduating from L.A.'s Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Espinoza honed his craft working for contemporary designer Sue Wong. Today, he creates his own line in a former spice factory west of Chinatown.View points: Local TV personalities like Natalie Martinez are fans.
Sold at: Jake, Celeste Turner, Ami Ami, Della Moda
He says: "When a woman has a dress on, it gives her a sense of being very sensual, and that's what I like to see when I see a woman walking down the street."
We say: The flattering, body-skimming fit makes it nearly impossible to look anything but stunning.
Spring highlights: Matte jersey cowl-neck dress ($330), silk strapless blouse ($174), A-line skirt with pintucking ($216)
Fall forecast: Modern, even futuristic, separates and dresses with discreet yet revealing slits

Age: 26
Signature style: Classic suits, shirts, pants and ties with aEuro-chic twist
Inspiration: Armani, Paul Stuart, Brioni, Hermès, Versace, classic Brooks Brothers and the great Savile Row houses
Back story: The Chicago native and Loyola University grad worked in IT for five years before quitting in February 2004 to design clothes full time. His first creation was a pair of dress pants designed for tall, thin men like himself.
View points: A lot of GQ-ish business-types are scooping up Nielsen's daring, colorful shirt-and-tie sets, which are cut from the same piece of fabric to ensure a perfect match.
Sold at: Jake, Tessuti, Bynum & Bang
He says: "Menswear is in the Stone Age when it comes to true fit for a particular body. Take a look at most polo shirts—they usually have enough fabric to fit two people. Although the style and overall silhouettes are the same, I offer multiple fits for most of my pieces."
We say: It's hard to go wrong with classic business suits designed with cutting-edge fabrics and European sensibility. Spring highlights: Big-print paisley, extra-wide, handmade 100 percent silk ties ($150); Pucci-inspired bow tie and cummerbund set ($275); blue-and-white seersucker suit with a flared leg pant ($600)
Fall forecast: Formal wear and suits remain Nielsen's primary focus, but he's expanding into women's shirts and more casual men's pants.

Age: 31
Signature style: False layers that aren't what they seem—shirts with extra sleeves that function as a belt, for instance
Inspiration: Natural fabrics and washed-out black. ("I don't want anything to be too precious," Gabier says. "I feel like light colors are not only expected for spring, but kind of trite.")
Back story: After graduating from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1998, Gabier moved to Antwerp, Belgium, to study with menswear designer Dirk Schonberger. He's now a design instructor at his alma mater.
View points: In 2004, arts-and-fashion organization Gen Art named Gabier one of its Fresh Faces in Fashion.
Sold at: p.45
He says: "I feel like when you're buying my clothing, it should be because you appreciate the materials or the way it looks on you more than trying to make yourself look attractive to other people."
We say: Unconventional draping lends an intriguing trompe l'oeil flair to the spring collection.
Spring highlights: Half-skirt with leather waist accent ($198), white shirt with extra sleeves ($178), woven gauze striped scarves (around $200)
Fall forecast: Inspired by indigenous prairie people and early settlers to the region, Gabier plans to incorporate patterned patchwork, metallic leathers and Native American embellishments.

Age: 33
Signature style: Attention-grabbing gold or silver jewelry with colorful, slightly bohemian embellishments
Inspiration: Semiprecious stones, 18k gold leaves and discs
Back story: Plumb's jewelry-making career started after her husband convinced her to take a metal-smithing class in 2001. Friends, family and strangers raved about her creations, so she quit her job as the Midwest marketing manager for Banana Republic to pursue her jewelry line full time.
View points: Millions of TV viewers saw Teri Hatcher sporting CoCo's signature 18k gold leaf earrings on Desperate Housewives.
Sold at: Krista K Boutique, Material Possessions, Mark Shale, Neapolitan, Fuchsia
She says: "I create accessories that you can build an outfit around. Women who wear my jewelry are sexy, confident and never look like they're trying too hard."
We say: Her gorgeous gold jewelry makes us rethink our platinum-only mantra.
Spring highlights: 18k gold small hoop earrings with Peruvian opal ($160), sterling silver and turquoise 6-foot wrap necklace ($275), 4-foot wrap necklace with rose quartz, aquamarine, citrine and pink tourmaline stones ($225)
Fall forecast: For the first time, Plumb will design rings in both sterling silver and 18k gold. Also expect richer, deeper and darker semiprecious stones.

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January 3, 2005
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