Cubano from Cafecito

CUBAN EVOLUTION We could debate forever the history of the Cuban sandwich (some say it’s truly a Cuban invention; others say it first popped up at Cuban-run lunch counters in Florida), and there’s even some discord as to the core formula (the addition of salami is common in some areas but has fallen out of the equation in Chicago). So let’s go over a few key points. (1) A Cuban sandwich should consist of sliced ham, roasted pork (lechon asado), mustard, pickles and a Swiss-type white cheese on “Cuban” bread that is generally softer and wider than a baguette. (2) Cuban sandwiches should be toasted on a flat-surfaced sandwich press known as a plancha (Spanish for grill). (3) Cubanos average five bucks, are ordered over a counter and are intended to be eaten while standing—all the more reasons they are among the world’s greatest inventions. (4) The best one in Chicago is found in the most unlikely of places: a youth hostel a stone’s throw from DePaul’s and Columbia’s Loop campuses. After swooning over the first Cubano from Cafecito, a café adjacent to Hostelling International, I thought perhaps I was swayed by the parade of young, thrifty, foreign hotties lounging about. So I took the next sandwich to go, lest I be influenced by other factors. Turns out, it’s still delicious, and the key to its success is the citrus-garlic-marinated, cumin-rubbed lechon asado and the perfect toasting (whoever is operating the plancha needs a raise). 26 E Congress Pkwy (312-922-2233). Breakfast, lunch, dinner (closes 6pm Sat, Sun). Average sandwich: $5.